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Down a covered passageway is the Orthodox community's kosher butcher, where cuts of beef, chicken, turkey, duck, and goose are brined in kosher salt and transformed into salamis, knockwursts, hot dogs, kolbasz garlic sausages, and bolognas that dry in the open air. The table fills with a mix of foods, some familiar to Jewish deli lovers (salmon gefilte fish, potato kugel, pickled and smoked tongue with horseradish), others that were part of deli's forgotten roots, like roast duck, and the "Jewish Egg": balls of hardboiled egg, sauteed onion, and goose liver. It had been decades since the flavors of duck pastrami had graced their lips, the memories fading with the surviving generation. You got pastrami at Romanian delicatessens, frankfurters at German ones, and blintzes from the Russians. In the basement of the facility there are shelves stacked with glass jars of homemade pickles—garlic-laden kosher dills, lemony artichokes, horseradish, and green tomatoes—that she serves with her meals. What's hidden between words in deli meat products. Though initially worried that a Jewish food blog would attract anti-Semitic comments (the far right is resurgent in Hungary), the somewhat shy Eszter now courts 3, 000 daily visits online, to a fan base that is largely not Jewish.
The next night, at the apartment of Miklos Maloschik and his wife, Rachel Raj, tradition once again meets Hungary's new Jewish culinary vanguard. It's this elegant face of Jewish cooking that has largely vanished in North America. Out of the oven come gorgeous loaves of challah bread (see Recipe: Challah Bread), their dough soft and sweet, with a crisp crust. Popular Slang Searches. By the time I finished writing the book Save the Deli, my battle cry for preserving these timepieces, I'd visited close to two hundred Jewish delis across North America, with stops in Belgium, France, and the UK. Here, in Budapest, you can get dozens. Hers is the city's only public kosher kitchen. To learn more, see the privacy policy. Crumbling the matzo by hand, a timeworn method abandoned in America, turns each bite into a surprise of random textures. What's hidden between words in deli meat boy. The only thing that remained of their culture was the food.
I didn't expect to find the checkered linoleum and big sandwiches of my childhood deli, but I hoped to find some of its original flavor and inspiration. It's a meal that tastes thousands of miles away from those I've had at Jewish delis, and yet there's laughter, good Yiddish cooking, and a table full of Jews who hours before were strangers but now act like family. And I knew that when they began appearing in New York and other North American cities in the 1870s, Jewish delicatessens were little more than bare-bones kosher butcher shops offering sausages and cured meats. I'd become the deli guy, the expert people came to with questions about everything from kreplach to corned beef. The official Urban Dictionary API is used to show the hover-definitions. I ask about pastrami, Romania's greatest contribution to the Jewish delicatessen. What's hidden between words in deli meat meaning. Of all the Jewish communities of eastern Europe, Budapest's is a beacon of light. We eat sarmale—finger-size cabbage rolls filled with ground beef and sauteed onions (see Recipe: Stuffed Cabbage)--and each roll disappears in two bites, leaving only the sweet aftertaste of the paprika-laced jus. I encountered restaurant owners, bakers, food writers, and bloggers who have been breathing new life into dishes that nearly disappeared during Communism.
Mrs. Steiner-Ionescu and Mrs. Stonescu remember five or six pastrami places in Bucharest that mostly used duck or goose breast, though occasionally beef. There were once millions of Ashkenazi Jewish kitchens in eastern Europe. In America's delis you find one type of kosher salami. His mother served cholent (a slow-cooked meat and bean stew) nearly every Saturday, but often with pork (see Recipe: Beef Stew). But here the cuisine is exciting, dynamic, and utterly refined.
A Jewish food revival was a plot point I hadn't expected to discover in Budapest, and it made me think of deli fare in an entirely new light. The search algorithm handles phrases and strings of words quite well, so for example if you want words that are related to lol and rofl you can type in lol rofl and it should give you a pile of related slang terms. There's a thriving Jewish quarter in the 7th district, where bakeries like Frolich and Cafe Noe serve strong espresso and flodni, a dense triple-layer pastry with walnuts, poppy seeds, and apple filling that's the caloric totem of Hungarian Jewish cooking (see Recipe: Apple, Walnut, and Poppy Seed Pastry). It may not be pastrami on rye, but it pretty damn well captures the heart of the Jewish delicatessen. Every other matzo ball I'd ever eaten originated with packaged matzo meal. Later that night, about 75 people sit down to the weekly feast in an airy auditorium at the nearby Jewish Community Center. Out comes a tartly sweet vinegar coleslaw, a dill-inflected mushroom salad, a tray of bite-size potato knishes she'd baked that morning. Children gather around for the blessings over the candles, wine, and bread, as everyone noshes on the creamy chopped chicken liver Mihaela piped into the whites of hardboiled eggs (see Recipe: Chicken Liver-Stuffed Eggs). Singer opened his restaurant in 2000, with a focus on updated versions of Jewish classics. Since 2007, Bodrogi has been chronicling her adventures in kosher cooking on her blog, Spice and Soul. They tell me that along Văcăreşti Street, the community's main thoroughfare, there were dozens of bakeries, butchers, and grill houses, where skirt steaks and beef mititei (grilled kebab-style patties) were cooked over charcoal. Once a major center of European Jewish spiritual life, Krakow's Jewish population now numbers just a few hundred. He, for example, grew up in a house where his Holocaust-survivor parents shunned Judaism. I sit with Ghizella Steiner-Ionescu and Suzy Stonescu, two talkative ladies of a certain age who regale me with tales of the Jewish food scene in Bucharest before the war.
One night, in the tiny apartment of food blogger Eszter Bodrogi, I watch as she bastes goose liver with rendered fat and sweet paprika until the lobes sizzle and brown (see Recipe: Paprika Foie Gras on Toast). Nowadays, you mostly get salted, dried beef or brined mutton. She hands me a plate. In the sunny kitchen of the Bucharest Jewish Home for the Aged, cook Mihaela Alupoaie is preparing Friday night's Shabbat dinner for the center's residents and others in the Jewish community. The couple own and operate the hip bakeries Cafe Noe and Bulldog, both built on the success of Rachel's flodni (reputed to be the best in town). Across the street, in a courtyard containing the Orthodox synagogue, is a restaurant called Hanna. The delis were all Jewish, but their regional roots were proudly on display. Due to the way the algorithm works, the thesaurus gives you mostly related slang words, rather than exact synonyms. "The food helped humanize Jews in their eyes. Its flavors assimilated, and it turned into an American sandwich shop with a greatest-hits collection of Yiddish home-style staples: chopped liver, knishes (see Recipe: Potato Knish), matzo ball soup. The meat was cured and served cold as an appetizer—never steamed and in a sandwich; that transformation occurred in America. For liver lovers it's sheer nirvana, at once melty and silken.
"It's as though history was erased. The dishes I ate there became my comfort food, and as I grew older, I started seeking out other Jewish delis wherever I went: Schwartz's and Snowdon in Montreal (where I learned to appreciate the glories of smoked meat); Rascal House in Miami Beach (baskets of sticky Danish); Katz's and Carnegie and 2nd Ave Deli in New York (Pastrami! "The three main ingredients—air, earth, and water—are symbolic, " says Mihaela, brushing her black hair from her face. A few years ago, I visited Krakow, Poland, to start seeking out the roots of those foods. "People connected with me on a personal level, " she says, as she slices the liver and lays it on bread. Amid centuries-old synagogues and art deco buildings pockmarked with bullet holes from the war, I encounter restaurants serving beautiful versions of beloved deli staples: Cari Mama, a bakery and pizzeria, is known for cinnamon, chocolate, and nut rugelach (see Recipe: Cinnamon, Apricot, and Walnut Pastries) that disappear within hours of the shop's opening each morning. And Hungary was the land of my grandmother, with its soul-warming stews and baked goods that inspired delicatessens in America and beyond. Urban Thesaurus finds slang words that are related to your search query. Please also note that due to the nature of the internet (and especially UD), there will often be many terrible and offensive terms in the results. The foods of the shtetls were regional, taking on local flavors, and when European Jews came to America, that variety characterized the delicatessens they opened. I'd learned that the word delicatessen derives from German and French and loosely translates as "delicious things to eat. "
There is still lots of work to be done to get this slang thesaurus to give consistently good results, but I think it's at the stage where it could be useful to people, which is why I released it. Though none survived the war, I realize that these foods eventually found their way onto deli menus and inspired other Jewish restaurants in the United States, like Sammy's Roumanian Steakhouse in New York and similar steak houses in other cities (see Article: Deli Diaspora). Growing up in Toronto, my knowledge of Jewish delicatessens extended no further than Yitz's Delicatessen, my family's once-a-week staple. Once upon a time, Jewish delis in America all looked like this: places to get your meats, fresh and cured, straight from the butcher's blade and the smoker. But for all my knowledge of Jewish delis, the roots of the foods served there remained a mystery to me. He serves half a dozen variations on cholent, a dish that, like matzo ball soup, is eaten all over Hungary by Jews and non-Jews alike. Because budgets are tight, bringing in prepared kosher food from abroad is impossible, so everything in Mihaela's kitchen is made from scratch. The city's historic Jewish quarter is largely supported by tourism, and while some restaurants, like the estimable Klezmer Hois and Alef, serve up decent jellied carp and beef kreplach dumplings that any deli lover will recognize, others traffic in nostalgia and stereotypes; how could I trust the food at an eatery with a gift store selling Hasidic figurines with hooked noses? The problem with researching these roots in eastern Europe is that there aren't many Jews nowadays.
The countries I visited on my last research trip are no exception; Romania has fewer than 9, 000 Jews (just one percent of its pre—World War II total), and while Hungary's population of 80, 000 is the last remaining stronghold of Jewish life in the region, it's a fraction of what it once was.