I have a craftsman 2 jaw puller on it ( nut is on the last few threads but fully on) and the stupid arm won't come off. Freightrain Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 Well, as I try to install my air assist I have been trying to get my pitman arm off. Seriously though, without having the box secured to something you aren't able to shock it with hammer blows. So, with the exception of the little neoprene washer on the center link, which looks quite easy to replace, I managed to get everything apart undamaged, while doing almost all of it wrong. Pjbgravely wrote: I have both of those. Location: milwaukee, Wisc. Check out Dining in with Danielle for great recipes! The box stays in factory position on the frame, a 3" drop pitman arm replaces the stock one on the steering box. This leaves me with a few questions, should I paint the steering gear before installing it? An unarmed man is a subject. Step 5, tighten the puller some more.
I will try him and find out if he has a better/bigger puller before draging out the cut off tool. But in the field, there are a few possible. Also you can use lots of heat there (propane torch). I broke two pullers using the old "tighten it and whack the end of the puller screw". Pitman arm is on the steering box, Idler arm is the other side, SideKicks have em, Sammies don't. Location: 1963 Lincoln Continental Sedan. Then, take a hammer and whack it axially to the pitman arm shaft (up and down).
The tub took the hit nicely and the steering gear seems fine. Without room to do the above, I think you're stuck. Of course i think alot of that had to do with the fact i was using 15 dollar pullers from O'reily and was removing some hundred or so bearings from a rolling harrow. Bang a large balljoint "pickle fork" seperator in between the gear and. We then ground down far enough to leave very little metal so that we could use a hammer and chisel to crack the pitman arm. Some people have commented that there are stronger pitman arm pullers. '74 W200 Crew Cab 360, NV4500, D44, D60 and NP205 divorced transfer case. Leave feedback, all information comes from our experiences, it can be flawed. If you are replacing the center link you can use heat that may help. I have a good one that has changed probably over 50, and used an impact wrench on most of them. You have to have the proper puller (and there are many different configurations). Luke, I have a pickle fork set that I have had for years, it has always worked for me. 1966 Lincoln Conv't Parts Car]. Mine was pretty hard to get off too, but I dont know exactly whick one it the pitman arm?
Get some tension on it with the puller and hit it with the hammer. Full dislosure: I work part time at Auto Zone. I thought for sure I was going to break that puller. The picture of the pitman arm removal tool (61LM-1608) looks different than the one pictured in place on your car. I still have a gas torch at work I use when I need one. Got my pitman arm off with the help of this thread. I personally wouldn't use a pickel fork here because it's going to transfer the load into the worm gear/follower/cam assembly inside (whatever it's called; the guts inside). 1953 chevy 3100 AD for 85 S10 frame have a 4BT cummins motor, NV4500. Also - before you remove it make sure you check your alignment marks or create some so that you can get it back on in the same orientation. Check out the FAQ by clicking the.
Frames, uni-bodies, suspensions, axles, springs, bushings, shocks, brakes, rotors, hubs, etc. To protect myself and the forum I have to add that using a lever extension is potentially dangerous so this is an at your own risk trick. Joined: 10 June 2012. Is there a good way to get the steering gear back into place to bolt it down? Here's the gearbox that previously had a pitman arm that wouldn't come. And a dust mask too. My 32mm socket is just barely too small for he nut, so i plan to hunt down a 33 or 34mm. That's how I did it. It needs to be immobile. So I got them out of my small garage. ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum. Can you turn it so that you can get a jack on one side then a hefty bar and a sledge on the other side so it shocks it off the taper. Install puller, tighten the E36 M3 out of it, and then beat on the side of the arm. I didn't think it'd work.
I have tried to remove my pitman arm to replace with dropped unit, but cannot get stock arm off! Last resort is buying a slack adjuster puller which I think will fit better(for $150). ALWAYS works for me. I just spent a good 8hrs trying to get this damn pitman arm off. I would get a proper pitman arm puller. It seemed like getting it lined back up with the other half of the rag joint was what made it hard to get back into place). At least 1/4 turn, or until you feel that you are going to break it - whichever results in tightening more.
I used the tie rod puller as pictured above to seperate that area. I have a local shop that works on a lot of off road jeeps. I raise chickens, so I am literally a chicken tender. 1 1967 Continental Coupe, (Dads car). I've tried heat, impact gun, and a BFH. I have used 2 2lb hammers and put one on one side of the arm and hit the other side with the other hammer while the puller is tightened as I can get it with a cheater-bar, be prepared when it turns lose things will go flying, good luck. Speaking of cost, how much was your plasma cutter. The heat will cause a stress fracture when the metal gets thin then just use a pickle fork and she'll fall right off.
The Scamp is sold, now just two old trucks and one newer one. Last one i did on this model truck was a '98 in 2000. a nut moves way easier after 2-3 years than after 13-14. i have tons of penetrating oil on it. Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2010 9:49 pm. But many aftermarket replacements use a castellated nut with. Intended for servicing front wheel drive cv axle assemblies will often. Now I remember.........
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