But, that resinous hard coat is easily vulnerable to water-damage (from say, water rings left behind by steaming cups). Basically, the rule of thumb is that you should not be able to see how thick the finish is on the wood surface; it should almost appear as though the wood is just moistened. You can make your choice based on the way they affect the project's appearance, their respective prices, and the availability of Danish Oil or Tru Oil. I've also used brushed on coats, applying something like 12 coats. Which is why, (as a general finishing rule of thumb), whenever we apply multiple coats of polyurethane (poly over poly) we make sure we sand the base coat lightly first, before applying the next coat. If you're interested in tung oil finishes, it's worthwhile to do some research to learn more about the specific finishes being utilized and their components.
I use tru oil to fill and bring out the character of the wood, then finish with poly. Hi all, I was just curious, I've heard that it takes a long time for Tru Oil to cure, up to 3 months or so. Both Are Water-Resistant. It's important to prepare the surface really well before you apply your tru-oil. 'Turkey In The Straw' 11 hrs.
When I finish furniture with this method, I usually do six coats (so, two days or so) then sand back with 1000 grit a bit more aggressively (use a lubricant like mineral spirits) to level the finish. Danish Oil is sometimes used to preserve and protect the wood, but it creates a yellowish tint that has a somewhat undesirable appearance. Well if it is dry, that means it is dry to the touch, but it is still a soft and/or sticky film. In contrast, Danish Oil produces a relatively more polished finish. The same requirements are true for spar varnish, which was designed for use on boats. They were all designed with specific uses in mind, and it's a good idea to be aware of that when choosing one. Tru Oil has a very specific recipe, with 11% linseed or Tung oil and an amalgamation of different varnishes and thinners making up the rest of its contents. And, how do you know its cured? I love the smell of Tru Oil! It worked just fine and turned out great. It will be "matte, " but the smooth, frictionless feel is definitely worth it.
Make sure the oil is dry before applying and sand with fine wet or dry before spraying, the poly might not stick if applied over slick tru oil. I'm aware that rosewoods and oil finishes are difficult, I'm just aiming for the neck. In such instances, using Oil or varnish that dries quickly is much more important than in cases where the surface can be left to cure for days. It is not quite pure organic oil per se because the formula itself incorporates several other substances, including mineral spirits, oil varnish, and linseed oil. Having the exterior coated in Tung Oil is far more appropriate than using Tru Oil because the former feels natural. This is what has made it my go-to finish for a very long time.
Tru-oil makes wood much more water repellent, but it doesn't seal it and make it water tight. Key Similarities Between Tru Oil and Danish Oil. I ran out once, found a small bottle, to use. It enhances and safeguards the wood by penetrating the grain and drying quickly. Gibson F-4, (1916); Blevins Octave Mandolin, 2018. Any of the varnish oils need to be applied to a bone dry surface or they won't dry properly. Twelve coats is a minimum, usually 20 or 30 are required. I don't know for a fact, but I would guess that the two types of finish are rather closely related in their ingredients, and both would be considered long-oil varnishes.. The trick to helping that drying process is to apply very thin coats. For millennia, oil has been used to treat stone as well as give boats and other wooden things a water-resistant gloss. If you like French polish, but don't like some of the quirks of the finish (keep that pad moving now! ) Another thing to keep in mind is that Tung Oil finishes are prone to getting dirty since dirt still penetrates through the wood trim. Plus, it can be damaged by finger oils over time, depending on your body chemistry.
The resultant finish has beautiful clarity, which allows the luster of the wood to shine, and if feels like silk to the touch. Frequently Asked Question. Easy enough to try it. Does this sound right?
Tung oil typically costs more than linseed oil. The usage of oil and references to it are said to have come from ancient China and can be seen in Confucius' writings from around 400 BC. Most polyurethane finishes are short oil varnishes and are designed for indoor use, and as such, are harder and less flexible than spar varnish and TrueOil. This post may contain affiliate links to products that we receive a commission for (at no additional cost to you). This can be inconvenient due to time constraints apart from being a more laborious exercise. Because there is not much you can do to remove dirt once it is embedded in the wood other than to sand out as much as you can and start over, it is important to maintain it clean. Q: How do I apply Tru-Oil?
It's not soft or gooey at all right now, but some reading has led me to believe that after the final coat, it should be allowed to sit for 2 or 3 weeks (one place even said a month?! Then you should try Tru-Oil. I've only had it stay gummy for long periods on some Rosewoods and there are other very oily hardwoods where it might stay gummy. A: Use a water based stain. Apply the first coat on the surface very thinly and evenly. Re: Tru-oil for finish.
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