First, Check For Voltage At The Injectors, When The Key Is Turned Or Button Pushed. It's so strange to have spark and fuel and no start... when I wind it over I start to smell a bit of a fuel smell but no start. It sputtered once or twice, seemingly randomly, but that's it. If the engine starts when a particular injector has been unplugged; that's the shorted injector that needs to be replaced.
Gotta be methodical. When you turn on the key or push the button, the injectors should receive battery voltage. On another note, I have been looking into gettting myself a scanner, but wouldn't know how to use it. I rented those noid lights and all the injectors checked out fine. Most often, these are bolted to the spark plugs or mounted on top of the engine. I checked for spark, good. I have confirmed by listening in the filler neck as the procedure above was carried out that the pump is not coming back on. I am new to the group and could really use some help. Having a good spark plug test tool is a good idea as they are low-cost and easy to use. I now have fuel and spark and good compression but still will start it was driving literally 10 hours ago then it was parked and not ten minutes later went to start it and it just cranks. 7 fired up first time but felt like it was running on like 3 cylinders, i was getting spark, good fuel pressure but it was just missing and ran terrible. I've read quite a bit on this forum and elsewhere of the nightmares people have gone through getting aftermarket parts for this truck, prompted by your post above... Ok then.... Engine Will Not Start - But, Fuel Pump, Spark And Compression Are Good. 41-993 it is. My only other thought is, pickup coil? If not flashing while cranking, opti is bad.
If it turns out to be that, I will permanently jump the pump and hotwire it through the ignition switch. I got the wiring right it's the base timing I got to set. Came to us, scanner(We have a Snap On Modus bi directional w/lab scope, very expensive) said everything ok so a cup of fuel and it started right up and is running great again. So those are my first go-to starting point. I put a new fuel filter on and it seems I'm back where I started. Bought this 99 suburban with bad motor. Problem started when i started truck up the other morning drove 1/4 of a mile and it died and wouldn't start back. NO SPARK vortec 5.7 ran fine then wouldnt start. 3 vortec, 82K miles, left in the shed for 4 yrs while in the army, came home put in new battery and no start. I pulled the opti and it looked like hell and smelled like a fried computer. Found in Chevy and GMC trucks, 5. I did that and still no fuel through the injectors while cranking.
Ended up pulling up the upper intake and found a few leaking lines and a little puddle of fuel in the intake, yet the data in the Modus said all ok and we followed the test instuctions that are in the modus. 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and sparks. This includes the fuses, crank sensor, cam sensor, distributor, ignition module, plug wires, and rotor. A weak battery can lead to this condition since it cannot generate enough power to create a spark. I'm thinking my friend that has the scanner might have an older one.
As someone cranked on the engine, I noticed that it did have spark, but it looked a little weak. Something else I noticed, while engine is cranking there is a ticking... a solenoid type noise, like what you might hear with a dead battery???? 43 piece of equipment laying around, most have only a code reader with maybe a data display at best, like our ez5000 or ez6000. I have a stupid question. Consequently, this will put the (PCM) into the "Clear Flood" mode, when cranking the engine. Engine cranks, tries to start, hiccups and burps gas puffs out the intake. 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and spare parts. We are replacing cap, rotor and fuel filter for now... we will eventually replace the fuel pump. After working on the above I've discovered the wiring job was not good on the engine swap, so i could potentially have an electrical issue. I contacted Howell EFI who I bought the ECM from and described the issue and was told its most likely the pickup coil in the distributor. Once the shorted wires were fixed, the truck got spark and was back up and running. The only "low cost" way to detect where the fuel system is loosing pressure is to put a shut off valve in the fuel supply line to the engine. Thanks, now I am getting a good list of stuff to run through, between here and asking around. Jumper would eliminate the spider, pressure regulator and ignition as trouble spots if the truck runs with it. Has it been pulled and tested?
Location: manly iowa. If it is, make sure there is power to it. IMO you are looking too hard at the back up for a sec and relook at the pressure is 65psi on prime( in spec) how about spark? Replied by Paul P. on topic 1996 Chevy C1500 silverado 5. 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and spark plug. Causes Of No Spark From Coil On 5. However I think based on the above facts I've narrowed it down to something in the fuel delivery system. Yeah, the spark was orange (using a screwdriver method), and combined with the information of how the engine abruptly shut down initially, I was thinking the problem is probably spark related. Thanks a bunch in advance! I double checked the distrub. Finally, it may be an issue with the distributor cap. Next I thought the ECM itself but it too is only a few months old.
Edit: by the way... we picked up AC Delco plugs 41-979. They can do a more in-depth diagnosis to determine (and repair) the true root of the issue. I set it with TDC marks on the balancer and timing tab. You said you tested spark and it's coming out of distributor? Not Allowed: to reply.
We replaced the oil pressure switch, same result. Engine: 305 tpi, 287. Make sure you have voltage at the wire on all injectors. By the way, we have killed several vortec 5.
It had spark in the atmospheric pressure, but once the spark plug is in the cylinder with compression, the spark can not jump the gap. You may be only one person in the world, But you may also be the world to one person. Before I parked it, it ran perfectly, no problems running or starting. AC Delco distributor cap & rotor would be the first step.
The spark needs to jump a half inch gap, and it needs to be a nice blue, not orange, spark at each plug. If your vehicle has a distributor cap, check it to ensure it is not cracked or otherwise damaged. I'm pretty sure it's a snap on, but don't know the model number. If you say your injectors are spraying, then the plugs should be wet, if they are dry, the intake valves aren't opening (snapped camshaft). Did that allow it to start? I think I got a faulty ICM at this point I pulled the plugs and 3, 5, 6, 8 all smell of heavy fuel. But it sounds like a sensor problem or a FPR (Fuel preassure regulator). That said, it can be caused by more complicated issues, up to and including a bad ignition module. 98 5.7L cranks but no start, new fuel pump, cap, and rotor. With, what looks like, new spark plug wires. So I'm firing completely on all cylinders and am immediately shooting flames out the throttle body.
This is the third time I've reset timing fortunately it's easy, lol. The main thing is to see if the coil is sending out a spark. The spark from the coil jumped about an inch or more, which is fine for this truck. You swapped engines before troubleshooting? It will start and run. Ok this is where I am at on my truck. Last edited by BarryB; 01-05-2012 at 10:09 PM.
I won't have a need for a top of the line one seeing I'd only use it on occasion. I drove home from work on Friday and the truck ran fine. I am a DYI guy with a decent knowledge base mechanically but This thing has me about whipped. All you need is a short jumper wire or even a paper clip. If fuse blows instantly when you try to start it it will have a short to ground. From here you have a few possibilities left. Had the timing chain slipped?
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