This happen when coming to a stop or during heavy drive times. Started as soon as new battery installed. It just seems a bit low comparing to my old 2000 5. My 2010 Silverado 1500 (188k miles, runs terrific). Had no problem with the oil pressure in about 20 miles. Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts.
How many times have you done this? I have a 2005 Yukon XL 1500, 203K miles. Check the voltage to the gauge it should be a steady 12-13. Another fix for low oil pressure can be as simple as adding more oil to the engine. When I got home, I saw the problem several times shortly after starting the engine, within a few blocks.
When the pressure is too low or too high, it can cause several issues within the engine itself, necessitating costly repairs, or permanently damaging the engine. If anyone has dealt with a similar year and their problem was fixed, I would appreciate your input. Was wondering what oil pressure you guys that have a LQ9 6. When i came to the holt. I did everything that is on this blog and it turned out to be the camshaft pressure plate. Other reasons that the oil light may come on are things that require more immediate attention. Make sure to respond to this so others know it's real and works. Decide to change oil myself. And it is certainly no reason to prevent the vehicle from being inspected! So I would suggest starting with the O Ring. You can get a kit off Ebay that has all an instrument gauge kit that has everything you need to do this job. Then the same thing happened to my 08 with AFM. I could get about 4 miles out of it.
I have a 2007 Suburban 1500 with the 5. Certainly sounds like the oil pressure sensor filter. Drops to near the bottom on subsequent passes. If you remove it then your spredding these particles through the lifters and solenoids that control them. I don't know exactly since the odometer only come on occasionally.. My daughter ( the offspring) was driving it today and it just died. Oil pressure gauge never moves off 35 - 40psi but the alarm comes on saying low oil pressure shut engine down now..... This really limits my choices for oil changes while on the road. Changed cam retainer plate with builtin seal to OEM upgraded plate/seal with new bolts.
I took it to a diagnostics place and they charged me $130 to prove that it was not a wiring problem and they also verified the oil pressure. In most instances when the engine has seized, the only option is to completely replace the engine. Replacement of lifter is not simple or inexpensive. The problem has to do with either the oil pump intake o-ring or AFM foul-up or sensor failure. They confirmed that the oil pressure at the top of the engine was sliding to zero, but the bottom gauge was normal. New mains, new rod bearings, new rings, new oil pump, new lifters, reman heads. 5 hours to replace plus parts. So if the new pump works good on the 10W-30, I might go back to 5W-30 - depends on how the engine sounds. 5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use as a daily part of their ownership experience. The oil pressure is still dropping down to 5 lbs or less when I first drive and stop at a few lights. Gauge apparently is not working, cause it still doesn't move. The oil pressure is now acting the way I would expect it to; starts out high, drops a little as the engine heats up, fluctuates with rpm.
Let's take a look at oil pressure. Voila.. the problem is right there on that screw. I have a 2010 GMC Sierra with 94xxx miles on it. Just popping it out seems like a bad idea. And if I do should I replace with equal or upgrade to different engine. Personal experience--someone I am very close to left the filter out, got debris in a lifter and had to replace a collapsed lifter. But that has happened only a few times. After five minutes and the engine is properly warmed, check the readings on the pressure kit. The little oil filter is almost never the real cause of the symptoms in the OP question. It is not the sending unit, engine flush, oil additive bla bla bla. Give or take 10 miles... Anyway, changing oil every 5000 miles or so, no oil pressure issues for 20, 000 miles. I tried an engine flush and marvel mystery oil but it doesn't seem to have made any difference. However, there is a relatively inexpensive, do-it-yourself option if you're the type of person to get dirty under the hood.
8. now I have 40psi or above. I have an 2003 avalanche 5. The problem seems to have been fixed completely. I have a 09 Silv NBS 5. I ended up putting a mechanical gauge in and ran it into the cab. It is so easy to clean that I would always make that my first step. Could be defective or maybe there's something in your oil that clogged it quickly. Though taking your car to a mechanic is the easiest way to diagnose a problem with low oil pressure, it can sometimes be costly. So while you're in there, you might as well put new parts in. The truck runs fine after changing the unit and screen but this is getting too flipping expensive to have to fix every year. I had a Similar oil pressure problem. I have already changed the sending unit, the filter underneath, ive flushed the oil added new oil and performance filter and still 0 pressure. I have noticed that during the time after starting it and driving while its ticking, if I come to a red light I have seen the pressure drop to the warning lvl.
If you respond to the email address I'll send you the article and provide you with any assistance I can with what has worked in our shop. Im having same problem. So I switched the oil to O'Reilly's 10W-30 for high mileage engines plus I added a quart of Lucas High Mileage gooo for good measure. Maybe I do have a failed lifter, but if so, why will 40 psi at startup quite the lifter, but 40 psi after warm up not do the same thing? It has shut off once or twice. I replaced that one lifter (yes just that one $$) and everything is fine, 180, 000 still using oil like crazy, Starting to blue/white smoke on start up. And when you're just cruising at highway speed?
Pressure gauge is behaving much better. The second problem was that I could not get the pressure past 40 psi no mater how high I ran the rpm, that is until the motor was completely hot. Pressure is usally good until warm then pressure drops at idle. I don't know what kind of oil was originally used.
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