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Hole Oh Make Me Over: Some Help With My Sway Bar Links Please

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Get Over It Meme

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Luckily (thanks Texas weather), mine didn't look as bad as some of the ones in previous threads from much newer cars (a long time ago) and I didn't have corrosion on my originals. Any suspension component with excessive play will cause metallic clunking noises and worn-out sway bar links are no different. Use the torque wrench set at 80 ft nsistent torque reduces the chance of brake vibration. When accelerating from a stop, I get a clunking sound from the front end. I'd like if someone can correct me if I'm I don't see how it needs raised at all. I upgraded mine but went with Prothane instead of the moog, I didn't want the same as oem with a different name stamp on them.... Don't forget on those that you must have a wrench to hold the main stem or it will just spin and never get tight....

When you tighten down the bushings, there won't be any play. The steering will feel different, the car will start leaning more, floating and rolling around corners. He gave us three reasons why your sway bar links or bushings give out prematurely: - Improper fitting. I find it funny though, that the EXACT TWO KITS NOT TO BUY are the two kits that are most often recommended on this forum!
On almost every car I have ever removed a sway bar from, I have found that there was unneeded tension in the sway bar when it was attached to the suspension with fixed-length end links, regardless of whether it was a stock car or a Spec Miata. The $15 kits polyurethane from Prothane (p/n 18-1115) and Energy Suspension (p/n 8. The axle is in the way. 5mm preload on the 26mm ID Prothane body bushings and to the 9. Given that "my" swaybar midpoint was 1. Would you still have to load the suspension when using aftermarket endlinks (ie: RB uses urethane). The washers that come with the Energy Suspension Bushings are slightly concave. Do this to the top and bottom of the link, and once both nuts are removed, remove the sway bar link. An important thing to remember when doing anything with suspension is to measure the ride height before and after the service to compare. The OEM nuts are tightened to 13 lb ft of torque, but I seriously doubt that would apply to the aftermarket solution (everything is different).

You can replace sway bar links yourself. The kit with black bushings is part number 9. I just hit Harbor Freight and picked up an impact wrench. You use a box end wrench to turn the washer on the stud.

The only thing I would do differently would be to use 2 plain nuts back to back instead of the nylok nut (not a fan of nylocks). You will easily see the condition of the rubber bushings, bends, and damage to the sway bar itself and the sway bar links. Inquiring minds want to know. I took some pics of the sway bar and I think it maybe loose.

Because we don't want the sway bar acting from one side of the car to the other until we are in a corner, that means we want the sway bar in static form — while going straight down the road — not to have any tension. Jack up the vehicle on the side that you plan on replacing the sway bar link. Location: Everywhere you want to be. That means having your tire pressure correct, driver weight in the car, and basic alignment completed prior to the final installation of the sway bar. Mechanical Problems/Vehicle Issues and Fix-it Forum. Hopefully the other end of the link isn't stuck too. Replacing Sway Bar End Links. The final step for me was to coat the exposed threads with grease to prevent corrosion. A nut splitter might even work if you happen to have one. This is something I used that were not used by anyone in the old threads. 7th Generation Civic 2001 - 2005. I was agreeing with you.

Location: Houston, TX. Note that the 19mm steering rack bracket bolts are tightened to 123 ft-lb but some say you' may be hard pressed to get a torque wrench in on the passenger side. Most times you are throwing the old part away anyway. The most difficult thing about diagnosing suspension problems on your own is the fact that so many symptoms of different suspension components overlap. It is not that difficult to change sway bar links. My truck lived in Indianapolis for for 14+ years so it has some rust. To install the new sway bar link, use an Allen wrench to hold the stud on the end of the sway bar link while adding the new lock nut. The Energy Suspension kit for the Scion xB didn't really work for the Scion xB (and thus wouldn't for the Scion xA). So long as you are on a flat surface, your truck should sit level left-to-right and not apply any twisting force on those bolts. He listed this reason as the number one culprit behind premature sway bar link failure.

The whole idea of how the sway bar works is the 'twisting' outer ends are attached at the truck (via the stabilizer connecting arms that you have a bad bushing on) and again inside of those points to the axle. Definitely try to tighten it first, that won't cost you anything. Flip your swaybar so it angles downward instead of upward towards the top of the link. For example doing the work on jack stands) what could happen if you didn't? In many cases, this is also the reality. It seems wrong to tighten the nut all the way down to where the threads on the bolt end b/c the new bushings will be crushed and deformed real bad from the pressure. 8105R which has the Red Bushings which seems like what most people use. 4. it doesnt tighten it. You may not post attachments. Maybe the odd ball joint or tie-rod stud but not much else. Read on to learn an important tip for installing MOOG® bolt style sway bar links. And by specifically strange we mean that your car will start handling very strangely, it will float, roll excessively and swerve.

Lift up both front or both rear wheels and place on jack stands. To fully understand how a car with bad sway bar links feels, we would strongly suggest you try driving either an old car (most 1950s and older cars came with no stabilizer bar) or a car that had its sway bar temporarily removed. Make sure to be thorough and careful during steering and suspension repairs. Can I apply pressure from outside against the link housing? Start with the top of the bolt pointing up, run a washer up to the top of the bolt head then a bushing up to the washer.

You don't need a front wheel alignment if you are replacing just the sway bar end links. Do the same sway bar end link install on the other side of the car. There is another kit which is Part Number 9. If one side of the car leans, the other side follows suit because of the sway bar. It was that bad, it came right off in my hand. I bough the Prothane 19419 Front Sway Bar Endlinks.

Transmission: 5-speed manual. Engine: 355 efi roller. The nut should have a nylon or some other type of lock mech. Actually, it's not that weird. All information I found suggested using Grade 8 parts. I seem to remember the bushing sticking out from the metal some and then the bolt staying in contact with the bushing instead. The end link lengths should both be the same before installing. Even with locking pliers I was not successful. 8th June 2009, 22:58. wow. Should I jack up the sway bar end after ding that since it appears to be compressed when the wheels are up in the air?

You may not post replies. Frequently Asked Questions. 04-25-2016 08:28 AM. Rust and moisture also negatively affect their lifespan. AIM me and I will help you. Location: Appleton, WI. You need to hold the little bar in the middle using the 10 mm box wrench or everything will spin when you try to turn the nuts. In that case, you should look at other suspension components that might be causing the same symptoms as a bad sway bar. Instead, adjust the length of the end link until the bolt slips through the sway bar without tension. Slide the bolt down in the hole in the lower control arm and then put on the last bushing on followed by the last washer and then the nut. I have a rubber thing on my jack to prevent damaging anything (rubber is what touched the lower control arm). You usually cannot feel any slop or movement in the end of the can only hear it, most often at slow speeds. It might be that simple, and I certainly WISH it were that simple, but if you look at the thread I referenced (and quite a few others), neither the Prothane #18-1115 kit nor the Energy Suspension 8.

It takes little adjustments to get things right. Tools you will need. Torque wrenches are used to tighten. Some use locktitet removable (blue).

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