I'm not convinced all the ingredients are in place. If it drops it's good if it doesn't it's stuck. Jumping the pump will tell you almost right away if the pump can keep up with the engines demand for eliminating or confirming the pump as the problem. I wish I could plug the scanner in and watch the data while cranking. 2. also its a 97 gmc Sierra 1500 extended cab with it being a 97 there is not a passlock security system on it they were put on in 98 any help will be awesome just need this thing to run. Cause you heard it run when you yanked out the donor vehicle? 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and sparks. Similar to the primary circuit, a 0 reading indicates a short, while a high reading indicates an open circuit. Tech / General Engine. I had one that was only a couple pounds off, and it would not start. I think I got a faulty ICM at this point I pulled the plugs and 3, 5, 6, 8 all smell of heavy fuel. Replied by Paul P. on topic 1996 Chevy C1500 silverado 5. You have fuel, spark and compression. Thanks, and I will let you know what happens.
What you might have to do is spin the distributor to get it back in time. Tried to go to work on Monday and no start. I did that one already and it flashed on all injectors. I do plan to pull those and clean them.
The spark needs to jump a half inch gap, and it needs to be a nice blue, not orange, spark at each plug. By the way, I have no codes. I smelt fuel when cranking on it earlier but that's not s good enough test to know if the pressure is correct. Location: Adelaide, South Australia. If you pump up the pressure and leave the truck sit for an hour on a run to town (a 14-mile round trip for each run, mind you), it will still hold pressure when you get back, so it is not the in-tank check valve. Starting fluid does not do anything. 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and spark notes. I'll try to see about getting it to him. See if it is turning. Recently Browsing 0 members. You can do this by connecting the multimeter to the coil's positive terminal, with the negative lead connected to the high output terminal that sends current to the spark plugs. My only other thought is, pickup coil? We have replaced the throttle positon sensor, the fuel filter and the oil pressure sensor. I was going to take my 96 silverado up north and put it in storage; but I can't get it to start. And thank you guys for all the past responses it greatly helps.
You can see it, and get your hand on it at the same time! I went ahead and bought a new FPR so I'll give it a shot today sometime and reply back. Did not have fire to my plugs changed cap and rotor and now i do have fire to my plugs. I have to agree with 98white5. I guess this explains why it ran great and then wont start the next day after all the replacements.
We are at the place where parts prices start at $75 quickly rise past $150 a part from there. This was all of a sudden deal. Hi, If you have spark, fuel, compression, and correct timing, the engine has no choice but to run. 99 Yukon 5.7..... No start. Have spark and fuel. From buying research to owner support, join 1. I will post my results as soon as I have them. He has a friend who has the spider assembly off another Vortec that the guy says works fine.
Engine: 350 TPI w/ extras! Ground the plug btw. I do think you have a fuel pump problem. Starting the motor it dropped to the upper 60's and dropped down to nothing after the motor died. We borrowed a tester ignition switch from a Chevy dealer shop, and plugged it in, with the same result. So my 95 LT1 wouldn't start the other day.
We will walk you through the most common answers below. The problem could be: - Blown injector circuit fuse. That thing had rolled counter clockwise 1 1/2". Normally I've been able to figure these kind of things out, but I'm lost. I verified that the fuel Pump (from Howell EFI) was in fact working and supplied enough pressure to the injectors. Here is the sequence: Insert key and turn to ON, fuel pump runs and shuts off. Will be back to update after the plug/wire change-out. Has fuel, has spark, cranks, won't start. Even if the injectors are stuck they will still make a faint ticking noise. Fixed the valve put it into the burb. We replaced the oil pressure switch, same result.
As a result, you may have to remove the spark plugs to let them dry. I have a stupid question. Seemed to have plenty at schrader valve without gauge, but after hooking up gauge was low just a bit and would not start! 06-14-2022 10:01 PM. Lots of you ever actually diagnose the original problem? This can also be used as a preliminary test as to if the wiring is good. 5.7 Vortec No Spark From Coil: Causes And Solutions. My buddy just called and told me this. 27 Aug 2019 21:05 - 27 Aug 2019 21:05 #33187 by John Curtis. But it sounds like a sensor problem or a FPR (Fuel preassure regulator). There are no check engine codes as the engine wont run to even throw a code. They burn and then ignition signal confirmation does not get back to the ECM. 08-13-2015 06:07 AM.
The 98, BTW, is a distributor ignition, so it has no position sensors. Thank you for your reply Captain Hook. Make sure to match the positive lead to the positive coil and the negative lead to the negative coil if this is marked on your ignition coil (some coils have two pins with no markings). Thanks for your advice. Issues with the spark plugs themselves tend to be the most common cause of this problem. Before I parked it, it ran perfectly, no problems running or starting. Before you return the Durlast, take the ignition module with may be able to test it. I don't know what else it could be. Or some wire has come off something and preventing it from running? I just need it to run good enough to move it from where its at to get it level to work on its on a slight hill. So, if any one of these is missing, your engine will not start. That is the only way it could jump a tooth. 08-12-2015 03:41 PM. 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and spark heater. I am a DYI guy with a decent knowledge base mechanically but This thing has me about whipped.
7 TBI from a '93) going. I back up what tommie said about cking fuel pressure with a gauge. 4 and 2 ohms for most coils. Put a lockwasher under the hold down bolt head. We could learn a lot from crayons... Last edited by ZR2Driver; 01-02-2016 at 08:42 PM. Car: 85 iroc z, 03 ram 1500. IF if did and its clearly a fuel related issue and we are on the right track. Did you see if the injectors are firing? If the spark plug is worn out, damaged, or fouled, it can lose its ability to generate a spark. I have decided to replace one of the parts that I have on hand one at a time to rule out which one it might then whenever I find out what fixes it I will purchase new from parts store. I put a battery in my Olds yesterday, wouldn't start, no spark or improper.
I'd appreciate any more suggestions, but I am certain from my diagnostics so far that it is the fuel pump not coming on for the run cycle. Simperfi84 wrote: My next step, and I'm checking to see if any one of the injectors is sticking open.