If the problem only shows up when there is wet weather or high humidity, make sure your distributor cap and wire boots are in good shape. Replacing wires one at a time can keep you from mixing them up, but it's always a good idea to check the firing order when you get done. If so, yours is wired so that the headlight current does not go through the ignition switch. Firing order on a 8n ford tractor. HOWEVER, the main exception to this is if you have "upgraded" the points to one of the breakerless electronic modules. There is absolutely no reason one of these tractors should be considered cold-natured or hard-starting. Use spark plug wires with a solid conductor core NOT automotive resistor-core type wires. Cylinders are numbered 1, 2, 3, 4 from front to back and the firing order is 1, 2, 4, 3. On a side mount distributor, take the distributor wire loose from the coil, bump engine till points are closed, and measure resistance to ground thru the distributor wire.
Grinding the starter more than a few seconds is just adding lots of wear and tear to the cranking system. Some versions may appear to be a very fine, thin, flexible file, with a chisel end. Firing order on a 9n ford tractor. YES, it's 1, 2, 4, 3. Badly pitted points should just be replaced. On a front distributor engine remove and service the distributor. I enjoy answering those. All N-Series Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N, and Ford 8N.
Some suppressor wire measured with an ohmmeter may show very low resistance, but still not perform well on these tractors. All Tradenames and Trademarks referred to on these web pages are the property of their respective trademark holders. Magnecor is one manufacturer that makes a high-quality spiral core spark plug wire that will work well with a breakerless module. The best spark plug wire choice for these tractors that have been upgraded with a breakerless ignition module is an EMT/RFI suppressor-type wire that has very small spiral windings around an insulated ferromagnetic core/strength material.
This may require pulling the movable arm away from the fixed contact if the points didn't stop open. A good burnishing tool does not remove material, it cleans and polishes. A little silicone grease on the boots can help keep moisture out and sparks in. Using just the normal spring tension with points closed, draw the tool back and forth between the points. The only down-side is you have to make sure both switches are off when you park it. Modern replacement points are often using materials that are not as good as what was normal back in the good ole days.
NO, I do not want help improving my ranking on search engines. The ignition system can be used to troubleshoot many problems. A good point file really isn't a file, it is a burnishing tool. If you still have points, just stick to the solid core wire. If you remove a plug wire without a corresponding drop in RPM, you have found a dead cylinder. Listen for a drop in RPM as a plug wire is removed. If that is the case, it might be a fouled plug, bad plug wire, bad distributor cap, worn distributor, stuck valve, bad rings, burned piston,... Bad wires are usually pretty obvious. This will bypass your neutral safety built into the pushbutton start switch. They should be clean and shiny. With the engine running, remove and replace each plug wire. Look for and fix and corroded terminals, connections, copper strips. In that case, a regular file can be used to remove pits and valleys, before cleaning and polishing with a burnishing tool.
Anything but clean and shiny is bad. But then, most people think being able to use the lights without turning the ignition on is an advantage. You may not think so, but many people have managed to get run over and even killed by one of those big rear tires. The original solid core type wires can cause problems. I believe this is the best way to do it. Pits and valleys on the surface of the points means the condenser is bad or the wrong rating. Spending a bunch of money on high-end wire will not make it run better. On a side distributor engine, remove the distributor cap, rotor, and dust cover, and look at the points. The start pushbutton works even if the ignition key is off.
Beware manufacturers who advertise "low-resistance". Solid core wires are inexpensive, extremely durable and most likely the best choice for use with early points or magneto ignition systems. If your ignition switch is more than a couple of years old, it's probably a good idea to replace it. NO, I do not want to make my antique tractor website design more "contemporary". Of course it won't fire until you turn the ignition on. My email address is provided for tractor questions. This means you can crank the engine even with the ignition turned off. The wire must be specifically designed to provide high strength, durability, and high energy delivered to spark plugs even with low energy ignition systems. Moisture gets in there and corrosion starts. This is basically meaningless advertising hype for suppressor-type wire. The ignition switch should last longer without the added load of the lights.
The electrical "noise" generated by non-suppressor wire can cause ignition problems or complete failure of a breakerless ignition module! It's hard to ignore the electro-shock therapy when you grab onto a bad one, or the light show you see with the engine running at night. When one of my tractors fails to start right up, the points probably need attention. People who owned a boat back when points ignition systems were common may be very aware of invisible deposits that can form on the ignition points. The combination of heat, humidity, electrical current, and a little oil can form deposits that will cause a set of points to fail. The ignition switches are not sealed units. If you switch the ignition on just to use the lights (with the engine off) it can fry the coil. Optimized for Firefox.