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Having first drained the braking system of fluid, undo the union where the pipe leads into the brake master cylinder (1). Keep an eye on the master cylinder reservoir and make sure the fluid level does not fall below the minimum mark, or you might start sucking air into the system. You are currently viewing as a guest! You might want to tow the car to wherever the customer wants, too. It seems to tighten half-way, then slip. Use a tube bending tool for bending new line, not your bare hands.
These fittings are commonly made of brass, but they're complicated. What do you think, I can`t see reducing the one fitting from a 12mm to 10 mm would hurt. Where a pipe passes through a bulkhead, check that the grommet holding it there is still in position. Most adapters are made from brass. Straight steel fittings are liable to rust, so steer clear from them if at all possible. Get a new fitting, see if it screws in well, if so cut the tube with a proper tube cutter, put on new fitting and flare the end. I tried a spare brake line and the same thing, so it's the male end (nut) not the female end (line). Step #12: The final assembly step is to use the remaining twists on each fitting to adjust the hydraulic line positioning so that the hose angles are ideal and without kinks. Shameless plug for my site.. Jerry's World of Toys. Thank you so much!!! 5 Copyright © 2023 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved. Old brake fluid can be anywhere from off-white to brown, or even black if the change is long overdue!
Because you take your motorcycle's performance seriously, we only supply serious performance products. Tester no, but that looks brilliant to me. DO NOT USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS to join brake lines. Repeat the lapping process until you get no bubbles. Could be that one of these new bleed tools is just the way to save that time. I note that the new line, where it is supposed to connect to the cylinder port, appears pretty straight when held next to the old one, and the fitting slides back/forth without snagging. They are machined with a little tube running through their length so that a mechanic can vent hydraulic fluid just by turning them slightly. I took it off a couple years later to rebuild my calipers and sure enough, it threaded back on easily (not that it didn't still need vice grips). Have a container ready to catch the fluid and pump the brake pedal to force the fluid out. It seems like there's probably something messed up in the first couple threads based on the behavior. I have just about ruined the driver's side fitting trying to free it up.
Maximum – 33Nm (24 lbf⋅ft). Welcome to Tacoma World! One difficulty is that brake fluid continually empties through the port while jiggling the fitting. Leaky fittings require new flares and fittings. It is the result of a tiny imperfection in the flare that occurs while flaring the tube. Was going to try the repair myself, but decided to take it to a garage instead. Last edit at 2018-05-31 02:56 PM by JonMac. There should be a smooth, concentric finish. Selection of the right transmission oil for the Corvair. Before you install the new MC, do a bench experiment first and make sure the new brake line fits nice and smooth into the threaded port where it goes. If the union is corroded, you may need to use penetrating fluid on it.
Did you go muddin' or get dirty/salty? This is a valuable community on this forum and needs to be "Used and Abused" to its fullest extent! I took the rear brake line union out from one of the top lines on the MC and tried threading it into the bottom port, and threaded straight in securely. Date: November 21, 2008 04:24PM. Powered by vBulletin® Version 4. If someone runs the hoses to and from the core backwards, the coolant can still flow at the normal rate, but there may be a large bubble trapped inside the core. Since brake fluid ordinarily flows downward when you bleed the system, the flow has to be fast enough and through the right tubes to carry the bubble along. I can see two areas where the thread has been mashed. Restoration in Bolivia. If so, let us know by using promo code: BLOG10 at checkout and get 10% off of your order! When you force the piston back, you squirt a large amount of fluid at relatively high pressure back through the hoses and lines, through the ABS hydraulic unit and to the master cylinder.
They come in a wide variety of materials, but the most important features are the tube and thread dimensions and the measurement system (imperial or metric). Do what Russ did Replace the MC! This is because these components were made by Bosch in Europe, and bubble flares are a European thing. There is virtually no way to assemble the hydraulic circuit on the car without introducing a bubble of air into the connection, so you have to flush and bleed. The symptom is little or no heat even with satisfactory flow, along with coolant in the return line that's at about the same temperature as when it went in. Great - I stripped it. I know it's a total PITA which is why I have zero interest in trying it, but I figured there had to be at least some very tedious way to do it with the engine in, or at most taken off its mounts and moved a bit. Any tricks to keeping the fluid flow minimized? You run into this with a lot of the later sports cars.