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He has a friend who has the spider assembly off another Vortec that the guy says works fine. Bought this 99 suburban with bad motor. Cause you heard it run when you yanked out the donor vehicle? Seems like i'm not getting spark or wrong spark (timing)? 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and spark wire. So we replaced the pump and injectors and was getting fuel to the cylinders, still no start. I do have 62 psi fuel with key on. Its appears to be right on.
I guess this explains why it ran great and then wont start the next day after all the replacements. This would seem to eliminate the ignition switch as a cause, unless the tester was also bad. Crankshaft Angle Sensor. Connect the leads of the multimeter to the ignition coil terminals. I think it will create enough pressure for the startup but can't keep up with the needs of the engine, thus the drop in pressure. If the fuse is okay, try swapping the relay with another; to see if that gets voltage to the injectors. 27:1 LSD 9 Bolt Disc Rear. This pulse train should run thru the electrical ignition switch, he says. ALL HELP AND SUGGESTIONS APPRECIATED like you would not believe! 5.7 Vortec No Spark From Coil: Causes And Solutions. 28 Aug 2019 14:53 - 28 Aug 2019 14:54 #33222 by rpd1125. 28 Aug 2019 18:51 #33235 by Paul P. Never stop Learning.
If the engine starts when a particular injector has been unplugged; that's the shorted injector that needs to be replaced. There is one guy who says he has replaced nearly a dozen ignition switches in GMs for this exact problem. 3 hours later I went to start it and it sputtered a bit amd refused to start. Causing, an engine will not start issue. Last edit: 27 Aug 2019 21:05 by John Curtis. Hook it up with the fuel pressure gauge hooked up to the test port. Often, very old failing spark wires will have a few that work and a few that don't. 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and spark notes. Most engines are held on by 1-2 bolts, so they are typically very easy to take out. The pump does run and shut off when key is turned, engine fires off a little but then dies, seems fuel starved. My car has an automatic transmission. On newer gasoline direct injection (GDI) systems, however, a NOID light is no help. Haven't had a chance to change out the cap and rotor yet. Location: Denison, Texas. All fuses are good, and as I said the Throttle Position Sensor has been replaced already and is brand new, as is the fuel filter.
It turned out spark was dead under compression. So I'll get back to it again here soon. Today its back to not starting and misfiring in the same manner it was before. All these months later, and this truck is still inoperable. This could be an ignition problem but I doubt it based on the half inch of spark you have but it is still it run on carb cleaner? 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and sparkle. Than the spark is happening at the wrong time. Im having the same problem with my car now, ive just done a 5. So, if there are problems with how the (PCM) performs these functions, the vehicle may not run. Plug #3 is the worst one. It will normally be expressed as a range and measured in ohms.
Here are the best steps to follow if this is the case for you: - Use an OBD2 scan tool to determine which cylinder(s) is not sparking. I will post my results as soon as I have them. I attached a pic to help confirm that. Using a spark light tester is much safer from accidentally getting zapped. During your diagnostic process, it's important to eliminate the simple factors that could cause your problem. So my wife is going to be getting anxious to get out of the house with them. Engine Cranks Over but No Start?: I Have the Truck Listed Above. Make sure to match the positive lead to the positive coil and the negative lead to the negative coil if this is marked on your ignition coil (some coils have two pins with no markings). He had it checked out his mechanic said it had jumped time. Here is an example spark plug test tool on Amazon.
I want to run a jumper all the way from the battery to the pump, and try starting it that way. Engine cranks, no start, gas fumes/smoke puffs out of intake. That's correct, I have not tested injector pulse as of yet, that is indeed my next step. Attachments: Last edit: 28 Aug 2019 14:54 by rpd1125. If none work it's either all the nozzles are plugged(not likely) the spider assembly needs replacement due to a dead electrical side(possible, our S10 did this) or there is a problem in the PCM system. Yeah, the spark was orange (using a screwdriver method), and combined with the information of how the engine abruptly shut down initially, I was thinking the problem is probably spark related.
Join Date: Mar 2009. To actual end of plug wires? 002 difference... right? The secondary resistance for most ignition coils is between 6, 000 and 10, 000 ohms. Check Cylinder Compression. 7, the other day I filled the tank half way and went back to the house. If the dist is good, you can check the plugs to see if they have fuel on them to see if you are getting the injectors to fire. Each plug wire can be tested along with the coil wire going into the distributor. Finally, it may be an issue with the distributor cap. It always been a little hard starting with long cranking times. Assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this website.
Spark will take the path of least resistance so even if the plug is seen to spark out of the engine as soon as it is subjected to cyl pressure, the spark will escape from a deteriorated plug wire or cracked dist cap. Start simple.. check engine compression... check to make sure your distributor is in time correctly (stabbed correctly). Just as I suspected, there is a lot of corrosion under the distributor cap and on the rotor. 5 months, battery was low, but that's hardly half the problem. 7 engines here but have never ever bent a valve unless the cam timing was way way off----. Hook the main fuel lines up, the wiring back up, unplug the coil wire from the distributor so it doesn't start and crank it over to see if it is spraying fuel out of the 8 little lines. The problem could be: - Blown injector circuit fuse. But, if the fuse still blows; you will need to check the wiring harness, for damage and repair it. Did that, no joy also fresh tank of gas as well. If it is already sold, do you guys any suggestions for one. I contacted Howell EFI who I bought the ECM from and described the issue and was told its most likely the pickup coil in the distributor. I have a 1998 gmc 5.
So, it's important to understand, what it takes to make a engine start and run. Does anybody have any other ideas on this? Boneyard guys swear that all these FI motors sit a few yrs maybe 2 in 20 start, the rest need a bit of fuel to go. Even with the cam timing off a tooth or so the engine will still start, it just may run poorly and set the engine light with a P1345. That's correct, ICM is good, coil is good, distributor is good, new plug wires and spark is good through plug wires and plugs. Tried to go to work on Monday and no start. And fuel pump primes and his 41psi rail pressure, I even tried spraying extra fuel into the intake manifold to be sure but still no start. Transmission: 700R4. I plan on double checking all eight cylinders for compression and spark when I get back to it. This will verify the spark as being moderatly good. With the new oil pressure switch in, engine has the same problem, so we know it was not that. If the cap is cracked or damaged, it could impair the charge's ability to flow. Replace the affected plug if you see this or other signs of damage. AC Delco distributor cap & rotor would be the first step.