Why Is Tru Oil Used Over Tung Oil? This was on a guitar which I built fifty years ago when I first got started on building instruments. I haven't tried any other methods with tru-oil though to be fair, this was the first I tried and it worked fine. One thing that can help, and may help with your original question, is to use the Birchwood Casey (maker of TruOil) Sealer product and build up a few coats and then apply the TruOil. If you haven't waxed it yet, I'd strongly suggest this, which you could even do with the strings on: Steel-wool the neck shaft a bit, clean it up, and give it a light coat of 50/50 Tru-Oil and mineral spirits on a piece of folded-up paper towel. With open pore woods, like walnut, the pores will remain open using the thin coats technique, but without a built-up area around each pore like you would get with a brushed finish. Hence, always choose a dark place that is at room temperature for storage. See Also: 17 Important Tips on How to Sand Wood. It is safe for food, non-toxic, and for the environment.
Then I leave it for five days. Tung Oil is better than Tru oil at producing a natural-feeling finish, while Tru Oil is better at creating a better-polished finish. You're adding coat after coat of Tru-oil to that guitar, still somehow it never seems enough. Whenever you want the material used in a project to retain its original feel, you should use Tung Oil instead of Tru Oil. Only once the finish has cured completely may you apply a different sort of finish, such as Tru Oil, on top. Squeeze out what you need through the small hole, wipe off the seal and screw the lid back on. So far i've been adding thin coats every two-three hours.
Tru Oil is a more specific formula that is the same regardless of where you get it. In short, yes you can put polyurethane onto any oiled finish… including Tru-oil finishes. Use Very Fine Grit Sandpaper. Hope's Pure Tung Oil – This is a natural oil finish that strengthens a wooden surface while improving its appearance by adding a slight gloss. Probably Tru oil will be a mix of linseed/tung etc plus driers?! Does Tru Oil Darken Wood?
I don't plan on abusing it by heavy play I'm just excited to get some parts on it and see if the strings even land on the fretboard. I've used Tru-oil extensively, and at one time had the same "sticky" problem. Tru Oil is suitable for use on any natural wood, but it is frequently applied in several applications to a surface that has not been finished. Using dyes or opting for a natural finish will draw attention to the prior coat or the wood's natural grain. And if it won't, then you should opt for Matte Finish Danish Oil. Thinner coats dry faster, leave a smoother surface, and prevent situations where the finish looks blotchy or uneven. A mix of 2-parts polyurethane and 1 part mineral spirit should do the trick.
Still debating which natural polish is the best for your guitar? I used used a few drops of tru oil, applied to the sponge, for each coat. It's also important to note that Tru-Oil is a relatively slow curing finish, and the curing process can take up to several weeks, depending on the conditions. And this rule of thumb also applies when we put polyurethane over any oil finish, such as Tru-oil. If you have to spend half a day smoothing out the finish you just applied, then you are doing double the work, and adding unnecessary time. The original finish was spirit varnish. A: Tru-Oil dry time is approximately 1-3 hours. Tru-Oil will not change the color, however it does have a golden hue amber tint. Tru-oil makes wood much more water repellent, but it doesn't seal it and make it water tight. That said, it's always best to start with a fresh bottle. Honestly, once I tried wipe-on poly I couldn't think of a single reason to go back to Tru-oil. Drying Times and Curing.
After some research, I'm thinking one reliable option may be Tru-oil finish on the neck, I'm taking into account that I want something that will keep dry even in Brazilian high humidity. Rubbed in this thin, tru oil will dry in several hours. Popular wood finishes include Danish oil, which is essentially a blend of oil, a varnish, and a thinner. I've been using the stuff for about twelve years now, and I consider it one of the absolute best finishes you can use, for nearly anything. Stick to using a thin polyurethane coat to seal things off. Q: Can Tru-Oil be thinned out? A: Rub out Tru-Oil with abrasive agent (Rotten stone) ONE MONTH after Tru-Oil application. Each coat needs to harden for at least two to three days. For those unfamiliar with the term "fad", it is the common name for the pad that is used to apply the finish when "French polishing". And for a finish that feels like regular wood, you can use Tung Oil. For a more varnish-like finish, you should opt for Tru Oil. If there is still a strong smell from the piece, the finish is still too wet. It should be easy to blend it in with the existing finish. Treat others the way you want to be treated.
It's generally recommended to apply several thin coats, rather than one or two thick coats. There is no better oil finish! You should apply the finish in small sections and spread it out until it thins out. In contrast, Danish Oil produces a relatively more polished finish. Q: Will Tru-Oil change the color of the wood? Be sure to get all the steel wool shards off the handle before applying the next coat. SHBosch - Posted - 12/24/2016: 23:26:37. that should be "hoping she is NOT a sweaty player". And then rubbing it in with bare-fingers. This shade frequently highlights the wood grain with a warm amber gloss. I always cut it back after the last coat with 0000 steel wool, blow it off with my air compressor, wipe it down with a tack cloth, and apply a healthy coat of Johnson Paste wax for floors. I clean everything, let it dry and apply another coat of Tru-oil.
From all-natural Danish Oil to food-safe Danish Oil, there are multiple iterations of this varnish. Which makes it perfect for applying over Tru-oil coats. I also steel wool after the final coat, making more of a satin finish. It makes it a wonderful alternative for bringing out a wood's elegance as well as for protection since successive coats can stack up and attain a relative degree of hardness. It's always best to test your finish on a piece of scrap wood. The wood is protected but you can still see the grain. I always label the bottle with the date when I buy it. So, whenever you check out a resource that covers Danish Oil, remember that everything it says about the product might not be true for the specific Oil you get. Excellent for Guitars. They're small triangular sponges and they're cheap.
I don't use TruOil on instruments, but I use it on gun stocks. I'm very lightly sanding with a fine wet-dry sandpaper between coats. Designed for finishing gun stocks, this is a very durable finish that will last under fairly hard use. Q: Before using Tru-Oil should I use a water based stain or an oil based stain? Generally speaking, the first layer has the same type of finish as the last coat. I'll have to see what happens with the next bottle. Finally, you must remember that Tung oil is just Oil. In some cases, switching finishes from one layer to the next may be desirable. They have actually found that people will buy one finish over another because it dries faster. The common effect of this similarity is that both the oils alter the appearance of wood. Plus, it can be damaged by finger oils over time, depending on your body chemistry.
See my article where explain if you can apply Danish oil over sanding sealer? There's such a proliferation of good opinion about its use it would be difficult to not consider it a viable finishing option, it's just too time consuming for me to use. A: Some oily woods (i. e. ebony rosewood and cocobolo) can be tough to penetrate. One of my old rifles was finished this way in 1972 and when I still hunted was carried through rough Appalachian brush. My octave has a Tru-Oil finish. It dries as quickly as Tru-Oil, is a bit harder, looks great and can be applied with either rag or brush, depending on how thick you want your finish.
With a good grain fill, I normally take somewhere between 7-15 coats to be satisfied. My experience with finishes is that if it's not hard in 3 months, it's not going to get hard. Tru-Oil is regarded by certain luthiers, gunsmiths, and woodworkers as the best wood finish on the market. I've only had it stay gummy for long periods on some Rosewoods and there are other very oily hardwoods where it might stay gummy.