10's... im cant figure out why? For your vehicle to launch straight while transferring weight to the rear tires in a controlled manner and smoothly back to ride height again, you need a properly built and tuned suspension setup. His work has been featured in Car Craft, Hot Rod, Rod & Custom, Truckin', Mopar Muscle, and many more. Dave De wrote: I didn't say that it would help with consistency, you asked how to keep the front end down.
Consequently, you need to change your wheelie bar settings to work with different wheelbases. 56 gears with ladder bars and coil overs. Wheelie bars set too low can cause the chassis to "unload". There are multiple configurations, including body mount, axle mount, dual wheel, single wheel, and so on. Hey, sometimes you miss the setup and it is what it is. As wedge numbers increase then you should consider lower amounts of anti-squat. Buuuuut is some cases the opposite is true and adding air pressure increases wheel-speed (it just depends on the combo). Extension or rebound would be the same thing to me. I haven't owned a ladder bar car in a number of years, but I think I remember that the overall length of the bar has a significant effect on "hit" versus "wheelstand". 1 and with the wheelie bars you can also add the juice although I know you don't like either one, but even with a little plate and no sky wheelie I would bet your after the pass grin will be impossible to hide.
If that's the case then either take some weight out with the driver side ladder bar turnbuckle adjuster, or add some weight in with the passenger side ladder bar turnbuckle adjuster. But if the front tires are "driving" out of the beams as the wheelstand is progressing (over a longer period of time) then adjusting the front shock extension valving tighter-stiffer might help calm the wheelstand a given amount. A life-long gearhead, Street Tech Magazine founder and editor Jefferson Bryant spends more time in the shop than anywhere else. Typically, I would run the LR trailing arm up an inch on the front. But the real problem is most likely the car is dead hooking (or damn close to a dead hook) with little/no wheel-speed at the hit. 5 (hot) no tubes, rear shocks at 4-14 compression-rebound (19 max), front shocks at 12 (15 max). But if you're dragging the bumper and having to get out of the gas, consistency is something you'll never have. The shocks were bolted to the lower shock mount using the supplied hardware and spacers. Adjust your front shocks to control wheel stands.
When I scale my cars I set it up to have equal weight on the rear eping track of the direction you turn the adjuster and how that changes pre-load.. Then when I hit the track if it goes right you need more pre-load on the right. 80s in the 1/8 on 175 shoot. Does it seem like I'm going the right way on the adjustments? I'm looking for more. Location: Highland, MI. I got one 1/8th mile hit before the rain came at Milan. Should probably four corner weight it first. As long as he doesn't own ancient ladder bar technology which most do. Any comments will be appreciated. Your thinking of it backwards. Quote: if you start in the middle it's hard to tell which direction to go, not to mention time consuming to find out. Curt wrote:Dave De wrote: Thanks I will try that (lower the tire pressure). I have a ladder bar set up on a 1978 monte carlo and it has stock shocks and stock coil springs.
BB, TT5, Procharged 3300lb Street Car 4. With a highly adjustable shock, the range of adjustments is exponentially greater, meaning you can test and retest to optimize your setup. The suggested travel is right in the middle at 13. When you say extension that is same as rebound? I think the tires could use some more air in them. The ladder bar rod ends were bolted in place to keep everything lined up. As we explore issues you might face with drag racing suspension setups, keep in mind that every application will require a different setting, depending on vehicle weight, suspension geometry, available traction, and horsepower, to name a few. The engine RPM also came up a little and then fell back during that point. Mention Street Lethal Motorsports. "Once you have found the sweet spot on your car, record the measurements in your chassis log book with and without the river.
But hey,, it will calm the car down (due to it's inability to turn the pinion). Understanding your three link suspension can give you adjustment tools to help you roll through the center of the turn or help to hook you up on exit. Occasionally the driver might report that the front wheels feel light under acceleration at the late apex point – if so you should dial back the top link angle and anti-squat for driver feel. Keep in mind that anti-squat only takes advantage of the available grip through the use of mechanical leverage. Once set, the bar was welded in place. No videos or photos. If you want to stop the dead hooking go up on the tire psi and tighten the extension on the rear shocks. "After observing the first test pass, it is likely that some changes will be required, " Bickel said. If your rear shock rebound is too stiff, you limit the amount of weight transferred to your rear tires, resulting in poor traction. Just want a basic set up, bolt on, no crossmember, no coil Springs.
2. its a 75 chevy vega backhalfed car with ford 9 in rear w/4. I did adjust preload to newtral, and now my burnouts is OK. -But my shocks was 20 yrs old, so now I have ordered a set of new ones. For maximum performance you need the proper pinion angle. Each end uses threaded rod ends. In the old days I remember seeing 4 to 6 foot plus ladders under drag cars. The rear suspension it's self it actually separating a given amount at the initial hit (usually). The weight transfer, however, varies with the acceleration. There are no bolt-on kits for the Mopar A-body. Wouldnt it be better to have more tire pressure than less? If you soften the spring or make the shock eaiser to compress both will take bite out.
This unique device allowed us to mount the wheels and set the width of the rear end so we could narrow our 9-inch housing.
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