That's why I bought a Harbor Freight unit to begin with and I didn't pay much more than that for the whole dust collector. The filter has worm gear straps that attach from the dust collector body to the filter. You may want to use Wynn's floating gear latches to secure the filter, or possibly come up with your own rig. I used a small puller to start removing the old impeller and then pulled it off by hand. Router circle cutting jig. Dust collector upgrade thoughts. I have read a few articles/posts online about adding a larger impeller to a Harbor Freight dust collector. Put the new impeller on and screw everything back together.
This allows the flex pipe to fit over it and it fits inside the 4" PVC out on the blast gate. The longest run is 41', using a handheld anemometer, here are the results. Trash can with Thein Baffle inside. Step 4: Pipe Brackets. My now old, circa 2009 Central Machinery 2HP dust collector that I bought from Harbor Freight on sale and with a 20% off coupon, has always worked okay, but I want more than okay. Removing impeller form Harbor Freight DC - General Woodworking. I haven't installed any grounding yet. The Wynn filter is designed to retrofit to various dust collectors. The blades are 1/4" with 1/2" MDF handle glued on one side and 1/2" MDF handle screwed on the other side. Prior to last upgrade. Insulated or un-insulated 18- or 20-gauge copper wire, either solid or stranded, works fine.
I didn't box out the band saw as the pipe runs almost all the way to the blade. A dust collection system is composed of a motor and impeller that sucks sawdust into a collection bag. Tool List: table saw with crosscut sled. The pleated design increases surface area which increases flow. The baffle will sit on top of the trash can with a plywood lip to ensure good fitment. I used masonry anchors to attached 3/4" plywood to the wall to mount the motor. Suction is better with only one pickup, but ultimately I decided to employ two pickups. Lowering the jack lowers the trash can from the Thien baffle, allowing me to dump it. I sanded them lightly with a sander until the fit was better. 16) 5/16" fender washers. Harbor Freight Dust Collector Build. I cut out a plywood flange as the dust collector body slopes. 5" hole for coupler.
The wire acts as an antenna rather than a conductor in a circuit. The impeller is from a Rikon dust collector. Harbor freight dust collector impeller upgrade parts. Popular Post Just Bob Posted September 15, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Recently I swapped out the HF DC impeller, for the larger Rikon impeller. That will be the last step, if necessary. So what's your thoughts? Replace the tiny stock impeller with an impeller that is basically the biggest impeller I can fit in the housing. And run the puller pressure screw in, making adjustments to your puller to be sure you get a succesful pull all the way until the impeller comes off.
FYI this makes a lot of noise in metal ducting. 25" adapter caulked into the gate. The circle cutting jig made cutting the curves very easy while ensuring the top and bottom were exactly the same size. The motor outlet will feed directly to the filter bag. I used a small hammer and punch to remove and install the key. Harbor freight dust collector impeller upgrades. Make sure the receptacle is rated at 20 amps as well. Once the bolts are removed the impeller is very accessible.
In my research, I've seen a lot of talk about upgrading the impeller with the Rikon part number P60-200-22. I caulked the flange in place. After inserting the PVC pipe, ensure the blade operates and wipe away any excess caulk. Harbor freight dust collector impeller upgrade. At each branch/Wye, you need a blast gate to close loops and maximize air flow suction. A clean filter maximizes air flow. Remove the original bag filter, and support bar. The plywood is cut round with a 1/4" channel for the trash can bottom edge to sit into for stability.
I purchased a set of gear pullers and still cold not get it to come off. 4) 6" lengths of 5/16" threaded rod. I would procrastinate cleaning the floor until I started a new project which meant if I ran out into the garage to get something, I. most likely definitely tracked in a good amount of sawdust on my socks. My goal is always to reduce line length or effective line length when possible. My DC uses 5" duct, reduced to 4" at three drops, it is ducted through a Super Dust Deputy and exhausts outside.
I am looking forward to the connivence and having a cleaner shop. Rotate the impeller several times insuring no operational interference.. - Match original flange to new flange back to back. Starting with the impeller and flange upgrade. I ended up using 4" to 2. I wanted to be sure it was air tight. Had it hooked to a few tools with hoses & the stock bag, which is like a big pillow case.
I wanted it to work well, if not great, and there are some simple modifications that go a long way to making this a much better unit. This bolt is REVERSE THREADED. I used strut for the frame & coated birch ply for everything else, if I didn't reuse the base I probably could have made it smaller. Materials for Blast Gates (x11): 4" PVC pipe cut to 2. Size up, and select the proper drill bit for drilling metal. I am looking to save space, so instead of staying with my 55 gallon Thien separator, I am going to go with a Thein baffle in the separator ring of the dust collector. Clark Filter P#1565938 (Similar – Cartridge Dust Collector Filter). You can have the best impeller, but if there is to much pressure behind the fan, you will have poor suction. The bottom plate needed to be about an inch wider to sit on the trash can properly. My intent was to make it easy to empty the chips & clean the filter so I made an air tight box below the cyclone & supported the air filter with a trapeze that I will add a couple of threaded hand wheels to replace the nuts. 75" in one pass was too much strain on the router.
This trash can has a 17" inner clear diameter. I moved forward and attached the 6″ piece to the cover and added 4 more screws. You can see the end result in these photos but evidently I did not document the process as intended. I had a few restrictions.
I am very happy thus far. I was going to split the pipe to collect from the base and top of the router table, but didn't have the space. The hose doesn't fit over the SDD inlet. At a home shop it's more for comfort and to avoid small shocks. I measured how much 4" flex pipe I needed. 5" sections (or a coupler depending on your setup). As you can see from the above picture there is a grinder. My Shop is attached to my garage. Have the gate closed while doing this so you don't encroach upon the blade path.
Step 1: Filter Upgrade. Using center punch, and supported on an anvil of some sort like a machinists vice, dimple each screw hole location in the new flange, This will keep your drill bit from walking off. I sketched up a few iterations and while the first few didn't have space around the perimeter, the final version did as I needed a ledge for the baffle to sit on a trash can. The larger impeller pulls more air flow and increases the performance.
There comes a time when you work on enough DIY woodworking projects that a shop vacuum just won't cut it anymore. The cyclone comes with hardware to mount the cyclone and a gasket. You can get cheap blast gates, but they're not great. What can I do to upgrade the output from the impeller and the separator ring to 6". It is a little louder than before and a slightly different tone. I was finding it was inconvenient because I was constantly having to unhook it from my table saw and then wheel it across the room to hook it up to my miter saw and then unhook it from my miter saw and wheel it back across the garage to the table saw.
I drilled a hole dead center to mount to the wall and two more to attach the clamp to the base. Step 5: Dust Collector Installation. I placed mine in a magnetic bowl while working to keep them from wandering off. Easy enough, but the output is still necked down to 5" isn't it? I also have an open flex pipe to the work bench with a PVC flange at the end.
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