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Login with username, password and session length. Reed Stretching: The first step is taping the reed materials to your call making surface in the arrangement you desire. Lil jiggy turkey call building jigsaw. I bought a jig from Ricky Bishop for around $60 called the "lil Jiggy" and it came with enough material to make 20 calls. A good standard starting distance is about 1/16" or thereabouts but you can obviously experiment with whatever spacing floats your boat. Long, but hopefully anybody that is interested can wade through it.
I have to run a small frame diaphragm and options are usually pretty limited so I figured I'd try my hand at this call building. There are a variety of frame sizes, tape colors, and reed-material thicknesses and colors, so you can get just about anything you Hunter wrote: ↑ March 13th, 2019, 2:00 pm So if a fella wanted to try his hand at building diaphragm calls, which jig, latex, frames, etc would you recommend purchasing to learn on? I prefer an assortment of colors so I can color-code my call designs.
However, you will have to do this on either side of the center of the reed because if you tape it in the center, it will be in the way of the frame (you will understand this once you start assembling your calls). • call making surface.... a flat, smooth, sanitary surface that scotch tape will stick to. I have put together these written instructions on how to make calls without a press or jig. If you are making the call just for yourself, the best thing to do is to try the call without any cuts first, to see what it sounds like. Thank you does I know if know if video youbsaid you stretch It to the 3rd tick mark does it tell you what the stretch is? Does he have a website? You can put the latex in whatever order and numbers you wish. Cutting: Calls have any number of sounds that can be created by the use of cuts in the reeds. If you wish to make a multiple-reed call, then you will repeat the process used with the first reed. As for the actual process, you can build calls without any kind of jig or press very easily, and once you get the hang of it, you will be able to very consistently put together calls that consistently sound great. Generally, you will want to put very little stretch in the reed and then tape the end of the reed down flat to your board, being careful to try to get the latex flat with no (or minimal) wrinkling. Without removing the protective paper on the adhesive side of the tape, fold the tape in the middle (adhesive sides toward each other) and crease it with your fingers so that the center cut-out folds over to create the open area where the latex reeds will sit in the tape. Order your materials first.
• Cutting makes for raspier and deeper sounds in a call. I would advise you to start conservatively with your cuts to see what kinds of sounds you are creating with each cut you add to the call. The next thing i did was get some 3/8 rod, and cut myself some tracking is what keeps the jig aligned while moving in and i measured my holes and drilled them out, and glued my rod in the moving block. Tips: • Try different latex thicknesses, and in different layers in your calls. Note: You may find that the adhesive sticks to the latex when inserting the frame.
Every one Ive made w mine was huntable, Mike. Repeat with another reed, if you desire, or go to the frame setting. Here i used a 3/8 fender washer just as added protection to keep the nut from moving, it presses up against the back side of the i turned down a handle and tapped it with a 3/8 thread and glued it up to my all-thread. The reed material comes in varying thicknesses and colors. You can build your calls on any surface that you can keep sanitary and that the scotch tape will stick to. In this method of call making, you can actually cut the material in half lengthwise if you want to save material. • Stagger the reeds at different distances apart to see what that does to the sound. This is usually best accomplished by starting at the front edge of the frame and gradually folding the tape over the frame from front to back (you'll get the hang of this soon enough). I use a pill bottle lid as a template but there are lots of ways you can cut the tape to your liking. Put the tab end of the frame down on your board and slide the tab end under the layers of the latex reeds, and between the taped ends, so that the staggered ends of the reeds will be toward the front, open edge of the frame when the two sides of the "horseshoe" are folded together. Bottom line is you can get as many thicknesses/colors as you want to experiment with. I'm not wanting to get into call making for others, just for personal use.
Prophylactic latex is the thinnest, and other thicknesses of latex are available (. I then took and drilled a 3/8 hole all the way through the moving block, this is for my 3/8 all-thread that will be used to crank things apart, this is also on the moving block side of the operation.... Lay the reed, which should be about 2" long and 1/2" wide (if you cut it down the center) on your call making "board" as we will call it. It is mounted on the block that stays still, not the block that moves. At this point, you should have the reeds sealed in place within the frame. Once again, tape both edges of the reed down over the first reed, with whatever stretch and spacing you think you want to try. It doesn't, pretty much just have to try it and see what works the best for you. All other factors are the same. Reply #6 on: March 14, 2021, 10:38:43 AM ». Always begin by cutting only the top/longest reed of the call. Dying ain't much of a livin.
On thinner latex, you can just grasp the tab-end and pop it off with a quick jerk. Take one of your frames and bend it at the middle (at the notches) so that you are bending the adhesive-taped side of the "horseshoes" towards each other. I had a broken drafting square laying around and cut it to use here for the latex to lay on while the blocks are required an 1/8" notching on both blocks, when the latex begins to stretch the plastic comes out. Firmly stick all of the edges of the tape together and down on the frame of the call. You can put the edges close together or far apart. News: GUESTS ARE WELCOME TO REGISTER TO THE FORUM!!! I will try to add some pictures/video when I have time.
Then i took my other block and cut a 3/4 notch out of it, this is what my peice of 3/4 bar stock mounts on. The most often mentioned supplier is Pioneer, but there are others as well. If you are making a single-reed call, then you will proceed to setting the reed in the frame. Thanks in advance for the help. Make sure you match the "hole size" of the tape with the frame type you get. Loosen one of the scotch-taped ends of the latex, which should be outside of the frame on either end, and flip the frame over so that you can tap the other side of the frame flat. Next, fold the small tab end of the frame up over the top of the frame and tap this down flat against the call. Lay your first reed down flat on the board and, using a small piece of scotch tape, tape one of the short edges down flat, putting just enough tape along the edge of the reed to grasp it. If you accidently cut through more than the top reed, you will likely deaden the sound of the call. Pull on the tape and reed and stretch the reed very slightly (the stretch can vary as much as you like, but remember, the tighter you stretch the latex, the higher the pitch of the call will be). If you guys dont mind, check out some of my other videos on my you tube channel and subscribe. Generally, the edge of the second reed is staggered below the first reed of a call.
As a starting point, you might make a single angled cut in the top reed at the center of the try it again. I'm going to try to get a video a week with working on my property, drone footage, hunting, fishing and just outdoor related stuff. All of the most popular calls can be made by making careful cuts with your scissors in the reeds, and mainly just the top reed. You can experiment with different cuts on each call you make to obtain the sound that you like, or make the call easier for you to use. Here are a few video links that may help with understanding some of the basics for those who haven't seen them: Good links to show the process. Most calls have one to three layers of latex of different thicknesses, and are staggered with different spacing along the layered edges of the call. Take the frame and place the front edge of the frame at the crease and push down flat into the adhesive. For anybody that decides they want to participate in this exercise, get the stuff above and then we can get into the call-making process.... Add another center cut to create a V-cut call, one of the most popular types of cuts used for mouth calls. The adhesive sides of the horseshoes will be coming together with the reeds between.
The color is added in the batch of latex when made, and the qualities of the batch can impact the sound qualities of the latex. To begin with, i took two blocks of wood roughly 2x4x6, and ripped 3/4" off one of my now i have a 2x3. Turkey hunting forum for turkey hunting tips. On: March 13, 2021, 01:56:57 PM ». Sometimes, you will make a real beauty without adding any cuts at all, but generally speaking, some sort of cut design is needed to get the best sound out of a call. These are Pioneer products). Here is what its all retching that latex. Now you can see how i mounted the bar stock to ride the moving block and move the displacement gauge accordingly.... Again, add backstretch if desired.
• small mallet or hammer.