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May be slightly different, but basically you are shorting the powerpack. The factory does not give any recommended compression numbers, but from my experience I do not like to see anything lower than 75#, however on vintage motors, 60# MAY be adequate. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start.htm. Here there was no known information. I even cut a fishing trip short by a few days because I did not want to get stranded in the bay with the wind blowing. There is any question, REPLACE them with new ones.
If this is the case look at the plate for straightness. The fuel line from the tank to the engine has disconnect fittings on each end. I would first pull the carburetor, clean all the water out of it. If that is OK then check that the solenoid is grounded. By then measuring how much is in there and subtracting it from the tank capacity, you can know how much oil to mix. Test for voltage at fuel injectors. Power/speed that you used to have, or it runs fine on muffs, but when. 42) Water Coming out Between Housings if in a Bucket: When the above water leak is present when running in a bucket, you could have another issue. Were taking the motor off and on boats repeatedly but it would work. Clamp the clip onto the carburetor throttle shaft's Starboard side with the wire pointing UP. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start 3. This was on an Elgin 2 1/2 hp that had a Tillitson adjustable high speed main jet carburetor. If something plastic internally broke, the button my still be out, but shorted out internally.
The above illustration and the following information are a reprint of OMC installation instructions for "OMC Clip Assembly P/N 431808" dated 3/87. The couplers are fully mated. You will now have to tip the motor upside down. Usually eBay is the best, but be aware that the older and more desirable they are, the scarcer and higher priced they are. What usually happens is that someone oils everything up with this being one that gets a shot. Has it been USED or has it been ABUSED? If they are badly pitted, you MAY be able to clean them up, but usually this arcing has created a VERY HARD deposit that will even ruin a new file. Then when the motor cools down, things are going to be slightly different. 15 hp johnson won't start. If after you have done everything but still no results, you may have an air leak at the fuel pump or carburetor gaskets or another location. If still no movement then heat the bolt with a torch as above, while warm soak again with a penetrating oil.
The picture below shows that this mono got so hot that part of it molded itself into the seal recess, actually looking like it could have been the seal at one time. If you can not find a repair kit, or diaphragm, look around for a material so you can make your own replacement by copying off the original. And the main motor ran using the smaller tank. There was also evidence of the use of LOTS of starting fluid that had a red dye in it around the carburetor in apparent failed attempts to start it. Or the engagement gears on the control gear and bushing assembly (#65) and the vertical shaft (#108) allow the gear teeth to jump out of mesh to where you may not be able to rotate the twist grip, you may need to make some shim spacers. AGAIN DO NOT RAISE the handle very high and twist the throttle at the same time for the 74-86 OMCs while you are running the motor unless you are prepared to disengage the gears, and change the twist grip timing relationship. 2) The timing plate could be dragging somewhere. The carb has to be torn down and if it is the older ones that use aluminum soft plugs and lead shot to plug/cover the openings needed to drill air passages, these need to be removed, the carb soaked in cleaner, it all blown out with compressed air and the plugs replaced. If it looks like a Jonson/Evinrude but carries a different name, it may really be a close cousin to what it looks like. As I also owned one of these same motors at that time, and it would never start cold without choking. In doing this, you may save a lot of grief (and expense to clean the carb) the next time you try to start your motor. Johnson 15 hp outboard not starting. Here is a thing that a boater does not really want to see|. Plug-ins or wire leading to the coil.
This could cause the motor to not want to start when the throttle indicator is in the START position. You may be able to clean it up, then warm it in a micro wave, expand the ends to make it a larger dia. His symptoms were that the 1979 9. Always use a factory service manual when checking or preforming tests to the Johnson's ignition system. One of my experiences was I had bought a little 2hp Mity -Mite outboard from one of our fishing club's annual yard sales, which came from a widow of a member.
Connecting the upper and lower shifting rods. There are 2 variations of this, the one shown is from a 1987 to about 1990, which as it on the end of the twist grip throttle handle. Before spark, the internal vacuum action of the piston also "works" (opens and closes). This is one item that is overlooked many times in tracing down a fuel problem. But the operators guide that I have suggests 3/4 turn. If there is minimal carbon built up from previous runnings, the oil will be the thick creamy light gray color that has a lot of water mixed in it. Here I had replaced both coils, filed the points considerably, pulled the head while I was there and cleaned the carbony pistons, and lightly honed the cylinders, where the compression was 70 and 74#. However first I would try draining all the gearcase oil, lay the motor on it's side, (gravity is your enemy) use a stiff wire or ice pick, flashlight, prayer, beer AND are VERY LUCKY while having a steady handed friend slowly moving the shifter lever to realign it so you can locate the yoke pivot hole, get the screw back in place with the inner end going into the shift yoke pivot hole. The keys will always be in the thickest part of this cam, meaning also the highest position. On the older OMC motors up until about 1990 or so that used the small fuel pump mounted on the RH side of the powerhead, there will be a large headed metal screw with a coin slot in it on the outside of the fuel pump. Possibly low on power for one. In this situation, the pistons more than likely have expanded due to excess heat, since the aluminum pistons expand more than the steel cylinders, the pistons can get seized in the cylinder bores.
Put more penetrating oil in the holes, let it cool. Next would be check the thermostat, these are usually rather simple to get to in relationship to other repairs as the thermostats are a thing that needs attention quite often. Of those how many are available for fun (spelled fishing/boating)? 012" instead of the recommended. However in trying to unscrew it, it soon became evident that I would ruin it before it came loose. His compression is 90 and 95#, the plugs are very oily but he has not had them foul to where the motor dies. However on the older motors, this word TOP may not be there, if so, then most shade tree mechanics use the crankshaft key as the set location as it is usually located at the thickest part of the cam. You will not find a factory recommended compression data from OMC, but they will say it needs to be about equal between the 2 cylinders, this being within about 5# of each other.
Before this it would have been totally impossible for fuel to get from the float bowl into the motor, that is why it would sputter when I squirted fuel into the choke area. The maintenance manual suggest starting off the idle jet at a setting of 1 1/2 turns and that's where I'm at now. Boy that really helped turn the motor over, but no fire at all, it did however pump water. This ratio is governed by the construction of the motor's internal bearings. The size O-Ring that I have found that works is 1/4" ID with a 7/16" OD. This motor was put back into service with the same crankshaft but a polish job on the journals, new bearings and it should continue to run satisfactorily for the average fisherman. Or the motor may start, run for a few minutes, then die. This part is also known in the parts manual as (Restart Clip). If you are having issues with it not wanting to run, (especially at an idle) without having to choke it, in all probability it could be debris inside the carburetor. If I could not see one run, I would not consider buying it if the compression was lower than 75#. It could even be from a fouled carburetor or someone forgot to do a oil/fuel mix and the motor locked up. Here you will see 2 holes drilled into both housings where penetrating oil was allowed to soak for a week. One transom clamp screw was almost there, The previous owner had told an untruth and withheld many others in order to hopefully gain a little more in dollars in a sales transaction, where obviously the $200 that I paid for it (from the second party) was way too much. Moving in the right direction.