These can go away now. Harbor Freight dust collector impeller upgrade PSA. I was reusing rods, so I had to re-thread them to clean them. I used duct tape to increase the tension fit as needed.
Some readings state that this configuration yields more consistent airflow when static pressure rises. Also, the other side of the gate will connect to the 4" flex hose or a 4" to 2. With my pipe brackets, everything stays in place. That's probably about the most I'd hope to spend. I was concerned that painting the blades could cause them to swell slightly and I didn't want to have to re-sand them. I glued it to the top at the same time I caulked the channels for the side and tightened the nuts down for a tight fit. My now old, circa 2009 Central Machinery 2HP dust collector that I bought from Harbor Freight on sale and with a 20% off coupon, has always worked okay, but I want more than okay. What is a good source for 6" DWV pipe and fittings? The wire acts as an antenna rather than a conductor in a circuit. Make sure the receptacle is rated at 20 amps as well.
The housing cover doesn't deflect like I was worried, so that isn't an issue. The next step is to attach the cover to the housing. I had a few restrictions. For now I will use a 6x4x4 splitter, but long term idea is to rip out the dual 4" system, and run a single 6" main, and reduce to 4" or 2. I have no issues with 2, 4" lines at once. You want to use as little flex pipe as possible, but at the machine it's unavoidable. In case anyone's been looking to upgrade their HF 2hp dust collector to a bigger impeller and having trouble finding the actual part, Wen's impeller is back in stock. As you can see from the above picture there is a grinder. Replace safety key and / or plug dust collector back in. My Shop is attached to my garage. I need 11 for my set up. Clark Filter P#1565938 (Similar – Cartridge Dust Collector Filter). Started out with the infamous HF 2 hp dust collector, which isn't bad for the price. I'm just wondering if anyone has built their own impeller for the HF dust collector and what kind of success or failure they had or if there were any lessons learned to be shared?
It just wasn't cutting it so I modified it with a larger impeller so that I could use a six inch duct. I wanted to maintain airflow. 1) 37" long x 6" hardboard panel for the sides. I boxed out the other equipment to increase suction at the blade. At any 90* turns you want to use two 45s and a straight run of pipe instead of a 90* elbow. The modifications to the dust collector are.... - Replace the 20 micron bag filter with a. I didn't have a way to measure the airflow, but there is a nice improvement. Insulated or un-insulated 18- or 20-gauge copper wire, either solid or stranded, works fine.
I'm cheap and don't want to pay that much. If I could box it out it would perform even better. A dust collection system is composed of a motor and impeller that sucks sawdust into a collection bag. Connect the ground wire's conductor to the dust collector's metal frame or housing. I measured the nut/washer height to exactly 4.
5 micron Wynn 35a spun bond poly (washable) cartridge filter. I was going to split the pipe to collect from the base and top of the router table, but didn't have the space. This bolt is REVERSE THREADED.
Duct tape at one end of the flex pipe to compress the pipe is the solution to reduce slack. Vertical, top mounted blower hooked directly to collector collar. It was also fairly ineffective because quite often the filter on the shop vacuum got clogged because the bin filled up so fast. My pipe height was dictated by counters. I used strut for the frame & coated birch ply for everything else, if I didn't reuse the base I probably could have made it smaller. While I want my flex pipe runs as short as possible, I need some slack to disconnect equipment.
Materials for Thien Baffle: Plywood top and bottom (roughly 18"x18"). I didn't box out the band saw as the pipe runs almost all the way to the blade. So my suggestion would be chip separator (cyclone, garbage can separator, etc) before fan and 2 or 3 filters. These are not "denture" sucking numbers, but it did suck up the remote for my air filter.
Before: the average at all three drops was 325 cfm After: average 640 cfm. I linked the Wynn clips. To seal the bottom of the filter I attached two latches to the filter allowing me to secure and remove a plywood donut and plastic bag. 5 or even 2x multiplier for how much you need is a good rule. I wanted to be sure it was air tight.
In lieu of the Wynn filter, the Donaldson P181038 filter is reported to be a direct equivalent to the Wynn 35a with a much lower price tag. They are better as there is no track for dust to fill up and are much cheaper. This meant the filter/bag could not fit in the corner. I selected 4" PVC pipe due to cost and availability. The best part is all total it cost me about 650$ as I had the strut & plywood so it was way cheaper than buying a 2 stage. I made the rough cuts a bit wider than necessary to leave room for the router to trim. Replace the tiny stock impeller with an impeller that is basically the biggest impeller I can fit in the housing. I would procrastinate cleaning the floor until I started a new project which meant if I ran out into the garage to get something, I. most likely definitely tracked in a good amount of sawdust on my socks. I added a tab on one of the back corners to prevent the baffle from wanting to turn. Introduction: Adding a Dust Collection System. While I could get rather simple ones for a few bucks, I don't want a gate with a track that will eventually fill with sawdust and impede operation. My pipe ran attached to the wall, which meant the Thien baffle inlet had to be against the wall. It's roughly at 42" above the floor.
The LVT floor plank sides are 6" deep along the slot, but 5. I also boxed in my router table and added a PVC flange. The motor mounted to the top of the baffle dictated a riser for the bag/filter body so that the impeller housing outlet lined up with the bag/filter inlet. I bought longer screws as the ones that came with the anchors weren't long enough to go through the plywood and fully engage the anchor. You want to caulk last in case you need to move/change/undo the layout. It's unlikely static build up will start a fire. I've got a blast gate at each piece of equipment and where my piping branches from wall up to the ceiling. Use PVC sewer and drain pipe instead of the heavier, more expensive schedule 40 PVC.